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Skin-care actives: Niacinamide, hyaluronic acid and vitamin C

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tagsglossar, ernaehrung, kosmetik

2 min read

Skin-care actives: Niacinamide, hyaluronic acid and vitamin C

In short: Niacinamide, hyaluronic acid and vitamin C are popular care ingredients with different tasks: barrier, moisture and protection from free radicals.

In more detail: Care products advertise many active ingredients. Not all are necessary; for young skin gentle cleansing, moisture and sun protection usually suffice. Whoever uses actives should know what they do and where their limits lie. This is general information and does not replace medical advice. With complaints, illnesses, pregnancy or medication, ask a doctor or pharmacist.

In Depth

Niacinamide (vitamin B3)

Strengthens the skin barrier, can visually improve sebum production and pores, reduce redness and unevenness. Typical concentration: 2 to 5 %. Well tolerated, rarely irritation (redness at higher doses). Combinable with most actives.

Hyaluronic acid

A sugar molecule that binds a lot of water: it provides moisture (not permanently “filling” wrinkles). Works best on damp skin and under a cream that keeps the moisture. Low- and high-molecular forms work in different layers. Well tolerated, also for sensitive skin.

Vitamin C (ascorbic acid)

An antioxidant that scavenges free radicals and, together with sun protection, complements protection from UV-related damage; can brighten skin tone. Sensitive to light, air and heat, hence dark bottles and fresh products. Concentrations of about 5 to 20 % (L-ascorbic acid) can irritate; begin with low doses.

Important for use

  • Mandatory programme: sun protection (SPF 30 or more) protects most against premature skin ageing and skin cancer.
  • Introduce one new product at a time, do a patch test (on the forearm).
  • Actives such as retinol, AHA/BHA acids are stronger and usually unnecessary for teenagers; for acne dermatological advice.
  • Skin changes, severe acne, rash: see a dermatologist.
  • Price says little about quality; read the INCI list. Examine advertising promises (“anti-ageing”, “detox”) critically.

See also: Reading INCI lists, Retinol and skin-care actives, Sun protection and UV filters, Fragrances and fragrance allergens