Retinol and skincare active ingredients

In short: Ingredients such as retinol, niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, vitamin C and acids (AHA, BHA) promise certain effects. Concentration and use are what matters.

In more detail: Retinol (vitamin A) can reduce fine lines and promote cell renewal, but irritates at first. It should be avoided during pregnancy. Niacinamide (vitamin B3) strengthens the skin barrier. Hyaluronic acid binds moisture but does not replace moisturising.

In Depth

• Retinol: Use in the evening, sun protection by day, increase slowly. In 2024 the EU set maximum levels (with a transition period).
• AHA (glycolic and lactic acid): chemical peel, makes skin more sun-sensitive.
• BHA (salicylic acid): against blemishes, oil-soluble, penetrates pores.
• Vitamin C: antioxidant, oxidises quickly, store in dark, airtight containers.
• Panthenol, urea, ceramides: care for dry skin.
• List order: The further forward an active is, the more of it is present.

See also: INCI: reading cosmetic ingredients, Sun protection: SPF and UV filters